Semisoft collar and fabric therefor



Dec. 17, 1929. J. v. MOORE 1,739,912

SEMISOFT COLLAR AND FABRIC THEREFQR Filed Feb; 25. 1928 'Patented Dec. 17, 19 29 UNETEB STATES PATENT caries.

JOHN V. MOORE, 0F PAWTUCKFT, RHODE ISLAND, ASSIGNOR TO MOORE FABRIC COM- PANY, 0F PAVITUCKET, RHODE ISLAND, A CORPORATION OF RHODE IS LA1\TI D SEMISOFT COLLAR AND FABRIC THEREFOR Application filed February 23, 1928. Serial No. 256,098.

This invention relates to soft collars of the type commonly used without starching and sold under the name of semi-soft. Two qualifications are recognized as essential in a satisfactory semi-soft collar. The collar must fold naturally along a predetermined fold line and it must be so shaped that a tie will slide easily between the band and fold-over portions.

It is the general object of my invention to provide a semi-soft collar and afabric therefor, so designed and constructed that the collar will possess these two essential qualifications in a most satisfactory form.

To the attainment of this general object in the preferred form, I provide a collar fabric made in two longitudinal portions disposed side by side and each possessing a distinct curvature after weaving. The curvature in the two portions is in opposite directions with the convex edges adjacent.

My invention further relates to arrangements and combinations of parts which will be hereinafter described and more particu larly pointed out in the appended claims.

A preferred form of the invention is shown in the drawings in which Fig. 1 is a sectional transverse view of my improved collar fabric;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged partial sectional view,

edge portlons are elongated with taken along the line 2-2 in Fig. 5 I

Fig. 3 is an elevation showing an important step in the manufacture of the fabric;

Fig. 4 is a detail View of the warp beams or rolls;

Fig. 5 is a plan View of a portion of the finished fabric; and I Fig. 6 is a sectional elevation of a collar formed from my improved fabric. 7

Referring to the drawings, my improved collar fabric comprises a band portion 10, a fold-over or flap portion 11 and a fold line portion 12. The entire fabric is woven flat and straight as indicated in Fig. 1, wlth the exception that the fold line portion 12 has an unbalanced weave, indicated in Fig. 2 as being of the so-called one-up and threedown type. This unbalanced weave causes a natural upward fold in the fabric and determines the natural fold line of the collar.

The band portions 10 and 11 may be of any suitable weave and are commonly of a bal-. anced weave and of substantiallyv the same weight and structure.

, While the fabric is Woven flat, the warp threads WV arepreferably supplied from conical rolls or beams 15, as indicated in Fig. 4:. After the fabric is woven, it passes to a takeup roll which is preferably in the shape of a double cone with the small ends of the conical surfaces adjacent. The cloth, in passing over a take-up roll of this form, is elongated at both edges, while the center or fold line portion, retains its original lengtluthe fabric assuming somewhat the appearance indicated in Fig. 5. The fabric is substantially straight but has both edge portions thereof slightly longer than the fold line portion, so that'theedges have a fulledorpuckered appearance when the fabric is flat. Thiselongated effect is emphasized by use of conical warp rolls. i

When the collar is folded, however, it assumes the desired position indicated in Fig. 6, with the naturalfold along the portion 12 and with the band 10 and flap 11 assuming such relative positions as to provide ample tie room. Furthermore, both portions 10 and 11 fit smoothly around the neck of the wearer. By thus providing a fabric in which both the center or fold line portion, I am able to make a collar which is much more satisfacso respect to s throu hout the width of the collar, with the edge of the band shorter than the'fold line iaind much shorter than the outer edge of the Having thus described my invention and hile I have described one method of'se- .9.0 curing a fabric with two elongated edges, it

the advantages thereof, I do not wish to be limited to the details herein disclose-d, otherwise thanas set forth in the claims, but what I claim is 1. A semi-soft collar having band, flap,

and fold line portions, said band and flap portions being woven to present slightly conical and similarly disposed surfaces when the collar is folded.

2 A semi-soft collar having band, flap, and fold line portions, with the outer edge portions of the band and flap both of greater length than the fold line when determined on sections of said edge portionsparallel to 10 the fold line and between planes perpendicular to the fold line.

I 3. A semi-soft collar having band, flap, and fold line portions, all of single ply fabrics, said band and flap portions, being Woven to present outwardly conical surfaces, both contracted toward the fold thereof, when the collar is folded. I

4. A semi-soft collar having band, flap,

and fold line portions, all of single ply fab- :5' rics, said band and flap portions when the collar is folded presenting outwardly conical surfaces both contracted toward the fold thereof'a'n'd the band portion corresponding to a cone of less taper.

5. The method of making a semi-soft collar consisting in Weaving a single ply fabric having band and flap portions separated by a fold line portion, and in stretching said band and flap portions'progressively longer '30 toward both outer edges of the collar while the fold line portion remains substantially constant in length.

6. The method of making a semi-soft collar consisting of weaving a single ply fabric 5 having band and flap portions separated by a fold line portion, and in stretching said band and flap portions progressively toward the outer edges while the fold line portions remains substantially constant in length by 40 winding said collar fabric on oppositely in- 'clined conical take-up rolls as the fabric is produced.

'7. A collar fabric comprising a fold line portion and band and flap portions, the outer edge portions of theband and flap both being of great'er'length than the fold line when determined on sections of said edge portions parallel to the fold lines.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto affixed my signature.

JOHN V. MOORE. 

